Beautiful timepieces gather in Geneva: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Exhibition

The most beautiful scenery of Geneva was elegantly unveiled at the Patek Philippe Salon on Rue du Rhône in Geneva from June 16 to 26, 2021. Recently, it was well received to extend the exhibition period by one week to July 3. The rare handicrafts exhibited at this Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts exhibition are the largest series in the store’s history, with more than 75 rare crafts, including pocket watches, wristwatches, dome clocks and table clocks. The full series of limited timepieces is rich in variety, each one is unique, and fully demonstrates the difficulty of craftsmanship, such as hand engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, miniature enamel, staggered decoration, gem inlay and fine inlay.

Enamel painting

The use of transparent or colored glass-like substances to decorate the case or dial of a watch is called enamel craftsmanship. The raw materials of enamel glaze are various minerals or even semi-precious stones. After being processed into fine powder, it is mixed with water to make a paste glaze, which is then applied to the coloring area. After air drying, it is sent into the kiln and fired repeatedly at a high temperature of more than 800 degrees. The glaze will fuse with the metal base plate, presenting a hard surface and crystal luster. Patek Philippe’s traditional enamel craftsmanship includes cloisonné enamel, champlevé enamel, miniature enamel, gold inlaid enamel, etc., and it often interprets the three rare French techniques: Limoges enamel painting (patterns composed of several layers of transparent enamel), Foré enamel (relief enamel) and Longville enamel pottery (showing black edges) and other techniques. Enamel craftsmen will choose to use one or a combination of several techniques according to the presentation of the work to present the most perfect work.

Marquetry

Marquetry is a decorative technique that involves stacking thin layers of wood into small pieces of slightly thick wood, which are then finely cut with extremely fine saw blades. Today, there are only a few marquetry masters in the watchmaking industry. Carpenters can use up to 130 types of wood, select 60 to 70 natural colors and textures from subtle features, and cut, assemble and collage according to their inspiration and the needs of the work. In order to achieve the right thickness and smooth surface for the best visual effect, multiple layers of wood are usually stacked to create a deep depth of field, and finally polished and modified.

Hand-made gold carving

Engraving exquisite paintings on beautiful metal canvases is one of the most exciting crafts. Through sharp and shining lines, subtle and delicate light and shadow effects are portrayed, and the three-dimensional concave and convex depth of the metal surface creates visual light and dark depth. Before starting to carve a new work, the engraver needs to draw a rough draft of the subject, and then use a carving knife to engrave the guide lines on the metal surface in a needle-like manner. The engraver’s hands must be very coordinated to operate the engraving knife accurately and carve a three-dimensional pattern according to the draft trajectory. Then, the engraver holds a sharp engraving knife in one hand to control the different depths and angles of the knife; the other hand is responsible for operating the ball-shaped tool that fixes the metal base plate, and continuously rotates the base plate to achieve the ideal engraving effect.

Machine engraving is a decorative craft in which craftsmen manually operate ancient machines to carve textures on metal surfaces such as dials and cases. Depending on the machine and engraving knife used, a repetitive geometric pattern composed of straight lines or curves is formed, sometimes presenting the beauty of simple geometric rhythm, and sometimes combined with enamel craftsmanship to be used as a decorative plate to add ripples under translucent enamel. The engraver needs to regard the work as a macroscopic whole, and must always pay attention to the changes in details, and carefully carve the details through sharp eyes and dexterous hands. Today, engraving is no longer a formal teaching course in watchmaking schools. It is only taught between craftsmen and is becoming increasingly rare.