Christie’s Hong Kong Live Sale on May 24 will feature a Patek Philippe Reference 605 “Heures Universelles” 18K yellow gold hand-wound world time pocket watch with a colorful cloisonné enamel world map dial. This magnificent example of haute horlogerie, made in 1948 and sold in 1954, is one of the first models to use the world time system invented by Louis Cottier and will now be offered at auction for the first time.
It is known that between 1939 and 1964, Cottier and Patek Philippe produced a total of 95 pocket watches, including 68 yellow gold and 27 rose gold pieces. However, there are only three known existing examples made of gold and with an enamel world map, one in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, one in a private collection, and this one will be auctioned for the first time at Christie’s Hong Kong.
This Patek Philippe gold world time pocket watch, Reference 605 HU “Heures Universelles”, with a colorful cloisonné enamel dial, is in excellent condition and is one of the finest examples of the brand’s 20th century creations. This model was one of the first to adopt the world time system invented by Louis Cortier, under whose supervision each pocket watch was designed and crafted.
The dial is expertly crafted by the renowned enamel dial workshop Stern Frères, and the movement number is engraved on the back, confirming that the dial was made especially for this pocket watch. This Reference 605 HU pocket watch combines all the classic Patek Philippe elements, confirming that it is a true “collector’s dream”. These elements include a complex movement, outstanding aesthetics, and a beautiful appearance that makes it extremely rare.
The “Heures Universelles” world time movement was invented by the famous Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier in 1931. This technology is also adopted by many top Swiss watch brands, including Patek Philippe 605, 1415 and 2523, Vacheron Constantin 3372, Agassiz and Rolex 4262. Cottier further improved the movement in 1953, adding the function of adjusting the city disc through the second crown. As a result, Patek Philippe applied for a patent in 1958 for the system that can independently adjust the hour hand without affecting the operation of the minute hand.
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