There was a time, in the not-too-distant past, when wearing a rectangular or square watch was seen as a bit daring, and a curved rectangular watch wrist only appeared once in a blue moon. Now, watches like the Cartier Tank Cintree or the Patek Ellipse are highly sought-after watches, with well-known collectors curating entire collections of these pieces. With prices for classic Oyster watches and vintage chronographs reaching new heights, and social media awash with photos of a handful of “rare” watches, collectors are looking for something different. Look a little further back and a world of unusual, almost strange watches from some of the world’s best watch brands is revealed. Today, we want to share with you some watches that we think are cool, understated, and ones you’re unlikely to find another person in the room wearing at your next party. And while you thought the Cartier crash was out of left field, we have some watches here that might surprise you!
Protection First
Watches with interesting approaches to protecting their glass are nothing new. The most famous example is the Jaeger-le-Coultre Reverso, which was designed for polo players, allowing them to rotate the watch’s mid-case 180 degrees to protect the delicate glass from stray balls and swinging mallets. There are many other interesting riffs on this criterion, including the Cartier Basculante we wrote about here, and who could forget the Corum Rolls-Royce watch with the glass protector grille you can see here.
One of our favorite pieces in this category is the Patek Philippe Gondolo Convertible. Haven’t you heard of it? No, don’t think so, but it’s certainly one of our favorite finds in recent months. Reference 5099RG-001 is a rose gold watch with a white gold striped cover on the main case, think tiger-striped Rolex Prince two-tone gold case. Under the “hood” of the case is the hidden side of the watch, which is revealed by pressing two buttons on the lugs on the bottom of the case. Just like your favorite convertible, the hood comes back to reveal the interior, and you can really feel the Patek Philippe quality when you operate that mechanism – such awesome quality! The dial is rose gold with a frosted effect and is adorned with black Breguet numerals and a small seconds hand.
Another interesting design we like is the Vacheron Constantin Jalousie. This example we found is again rose gold and has the expected Art Deco style, inspired by the original design dating back to the 1930s. The beautifully designed rectangular case has a curved case back that sits perfectly on the wrist and is adorned with decorative engravings on the sides of the case. The cream dial with delicate blued steel hands is hidden behind shutters that are operated by a blue sapphire cabochon button on the front of the watch. The wearer simply presses this button and the shutters simultaneously turn 90 degrees, giving a clear view of the dial.
Multi-Time
As with the professional applications, Rolex has done a pretty good job of creating dual and triple time zone watches in the iconic GMT-Master shape. Whether you are a commercial pilot, business traveler, vacationer or work for a company that operates in different time zones, it is easy to check the time at a glance. Perhaps the most epic example of this true multi-time zone watch over the years is the Chopard Four Timepiece we wrote about here. As large and unusual as this yellow gold Four Timepiece is, this watch is a custom piece that combines two reference 2030s and allows the wearer to monitor four US time zones, labeled Eastern, Pacific, Mountain and Central.
Another fascinating watch is the Royce Dual Time. Unlike GMT watches that feature a 24-hour bezel and 24-hour hand, many Dual Time watches actually house two separate movements, so a winding crown is required on each side of the case to adjust and wind each face on the dial. These watches are so different and interesting that they are sure to be a topic of conversation among friends and collectors.
A Step in Time
The stepped case waterproof steel chronograph performance has become one of the most collectible watches on the market. Stepped cases are also mostly used in dress watches, as gold is relatively easy to work with due to its softness, so many brands use the king of metals to experiment with designs and shapes. One brand that has produced arguably more experimental case designs than anyone is Cartier. As we mentioned at the beginning of this article, one of the most interesting cases is the Crash, which is now also one of the most recognizable case shapes of all time! However, off the beaten track, there are other oddball case designs that are lesser known but are just as fascinating.
One of these watches is the Gondole Jumbo Horizontal Grand “TV”, which is believed to be made in a horizontal form of just fifteen pieces. The large case has a step that adds an interesting element to the watch’s striking proportions. The attention to detail of the Paris logo dial has always been a key element to Cartier’s recipe for success, and this watch is no exception, with the Roman numerals designed to fit perfectly and flow around the dial.
From two steps to three steps, with a Cartier crystal. This watch is a rectangular case with squared corners, technically making it an octagon. The case is triple stepped, giving the case an exaggerated height that looks totally 1970s but also manages Cartier’s timelessness. These pieces have a clean presence on the wrist as the lugs are hidden so the case appears to sit elegantly on a leather strap. The dimensions are impressive too, a cool 35 x 28mm case with a very slim 6mm height. It’s these watches that make Cartier such an interesting brand to collect and study as there are many short-run pieces in interesting shapes and sizes. The Ceinture is another lesser-known model from the brand. Named after the French word for “belt,” this watch is designed in the form of a belt buckle and includes a winding crown that sits within a slot on the right side of the case.
One thing is for sure, there’s always something new and interesting to discover.
Whether you want to go out of this world with a Zenith UFO, with its incredibly oversized 40mm yellow gold case and hammered outer rim, or you want to enjoy the Art Deco aesthetic with a classic steel rectangular case but with stylized lug covers from Ulysse Nardin, there’s no right or wrong. Just choose something you like, and don’t be afraid to embark on that journey; there might be some unexpected treats to come!
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