Swiss watch brand JaquetDroz is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, with a history of more than 300 years. It was already appreciated by the Qing Dynasty imperial family during the Qing Dynasty. JaquetDroz is highly praised for its exquisite watchmaking and enamel craftsmanship, and is particularly good at using enamel-fired dials as design elements. At the 2007 Basel International Watch Fair, JaquetDroz displayed a number of perfect works that blend classical aesthetics with modern craftsmanship.
With a restrained grand feu enamel dial, classic touches and a dial layout like a carriage clock, Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde is as classic as they come. Except it’s not. It’s definitely the case with the new and improved Grande Seconde Skelet-One. Or should that be Skull-Two?
After some changes to the original 2018 model – including ceramic and various precious metals – we come to the typical modern interpretation of the new transparent flagship in two new versions.
The first is rose gold, which is relatively close to the first version of 2018. The same 2663 SQ movement, with a 68-hour power reserve and a matching gold rotor, remains. The Roman numerals have been swapped out for faceted rectangular hour markers, though, and the rose gold complements the slate grey dial. It’s a more streamlined, minimal look. It’s also the less interesting of the two models.
That’s because the second watch is housed in a ceramic plasma case. It’s another new watchmaking material to emerge from a Swiss lab, but it’s more extreme than most. In ceramic plasma, the material is heated with 20,000-degree Celsius gas until it itself reaches temperatures well over 900 degrees Celsius, until it glows a warm metallic light. The end result is a dark grey, ultra-hard ceramic and a lab that should be busy taking us to Mars.
Ceramic plasma is all-encompassing, covering not only the case but also the dial, rotor and bridges, darkening the overall structure. Only the occasional silvered movement or synthetic ruby can alleviate this unremarkable look, something we never expected from Jaquet Droz. This is without a doubt their most modern watch to date, and quite possibly their coolest watch yet.
Price and specifications:
Model name: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One
Ref: J003523241 (red gold); J003525542 (plasma ceramic)
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 12.30mm height, 18k red gold (J003523241); 41.5mm diameter x 12.48mm height, 18k white gold and plasma ceramic (J003525542)
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Jaquet Droz 2663 SQ, automatic, skeletonized
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 68 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF 32,000 (red gold); CHF 22,500 Swiss Franc (Plasma Ceramic)
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