Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control 2020 Series Moon Phase Watch Q4138420

If you haven’t come across it before, you’d be forgiven for thinking the Master Control is an archive design from Jaeger LeCoultre. Its triangular hour markers, traditional case shape, and overall less-is-more approach to design are closer to early 20th century design codes than garish 90s ones.

Introduced in 1992, the Master Control has remained a mainstay in the Le Sentier brand’s arsenal and has been used as the basis for a number of complications and features. The name comes from JLC’s own 1000-hour certification, one of the most rigorous tests for precision and execution in the industry, thus making the collection a bit of a wolf in sheep’s clothing.

In 2020, JLC has introduced four modernized iterations of the collection, sticking with the classic design while sporting minor modern upgrades. Aesthetically, the main upgrade is a slightly thinner bezel, so while the watch retains a 40mm case size, more dial real estate is visible, resulting in a more refined look.

There’s also a new tanned Novonappa calfskin strap that contrasts nicely with the sunray silver dial and brushed polished steel case. All four models will also be available in rose gold variants, which we haven’t seen images of yet.

Mechanically, much of the range retains JLC’s 899 calibre, but it’s been improved by inserting a silicone hairspring, upgrading the barrel and tweaking other energy-efficient techniques to give the watch a 70-hour power reserve.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

The three-hand version of this watch is the most wearable, at 9mm thick, and we’re guessing it’ll sit well on the wrist when paired with the new leather strap. With a date window at 6 o’clock and luminous dots above the triangular hour markers, it’s sophisticated without being boring; and with the generous power reserve upgrade, it’s an enticing proposition. Like all of the range, the Master Control Date will be available in either steel or Le Grand Rose gold cases.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar

As expected, the dial of the calendar model gets a little busy, but the display is certainly balanced. The month and date windows take up the top half of the dial, while the beautifully crafted moon phase is centered on the bottom half. The date display covers the outer edge of the dial, and to ensure the moon phase is never obscured at any point, a jumping date hand complication has been added.

Case: 40mm diameter x 8.78mm thickness, stainless steel or Le Grand Rose Gold | Waterproof: 50m (bar) | Reference: Q4148420 (steel) and Q4142520 (gold) | Movement: Calibre 866, in-house, automatic, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Power reserve: 70h | Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, triple calendar, moon phase | Strap: Novonappa calfskin leather | Price/availability: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic

One of JLC’s most iconic complications is its elegant world time watch – the Geographic Solution. A second time zone subdial is located at 6 o’clock, with the desired city below. Simply set it using the crown at 10 o’clock, and away you go. There are also neat night and power reserve indicators on the left half of the dial, letting you know not to call it a day at a boring hour. Overall, the asymmetrical styling fits in well with the rest of JLC’s DNA, and while the 11mm-thick size is a little rounded, it’s surprisingly slim for a travel watch.

Case: 40mm diameter x 10.96mm thickness, stainless steel or Le Grand Rose Gold | Waterproof: 50m (bar) | Reference: Q4128420 (steel) and Q4122520 (gold) | Movement: Calibre 939, in-house, automatic, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Power reserve: 70h | Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, second time zone, night indicator, city indication | Strap: Novonappa calfskin | Price/availability: TBD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Packed in a chronograph and annual calendar, the last of the foursome is the thickest at 12mm. The movement in-house is JLC’s 759 caliber, with a column-wheel chronograph and clutch mechanism, and a power reserve of up to 65 hours. The dial is nicely balanced, with recessed subdials and an outer pulsating scale that works in conjunction with the chronograph. The pushers are relatively unobtrusive, too, and while we don’t have a photo of it, we’re eager to see this rose gold piece with its open sapphire caseback.

Case: 40mm diameter x 12.05mm thickness, stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold | Water resistance: 50m (bar) | Reference: Q4138420 (steel) and Q4132520 (gold) | Movement: Calibre 759, Manufacture, automatic, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Power reserve: 65 hours | Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, triple calendar with moon, chronograph with pulsometer | Strap: Novonappa calfskin | Price/availability: $14,500 (steel) and $26,000 (Le Grand Rose gold)