The 80s weren’t exactly the best of times for watchmaking. After the Quartz Crisis, there weren’t that many brands creating new purely mechanical watches, and there didn’t seem to be much point in doing so. Breitling though decided to go the other way and created the Chronomat in 1984. Less than four decades later, the new and improved Chronomat would become the cornerstone of Breitling’s 2020 releases.
Unlike the pure pilot style of the Navitimer or the more elegant proposition of the Premier, the Chronomat was designed to be a multifunctional sports watch. In practice, this meant a watch with no real features – it wasn’t really a diver’s or pilot’s watch – but it occupied a middle ground for everyday wear. In other words, the Chronomat was designed to be an all-rounder.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42, Silver Dial and Contrasting Black Chronograph Counters
This versatility is underpinned by the solid tool case, but more specifically the rider label on the rotating bezel. A handover from the 80s original, the labels at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions are interchangeable and can be swapped depending on whether you want to use the bezel for counting up or down. It’s a novel touch, but still not the most recognizable aspect of the Chronomat. That honor belongs to the bracelet.
The Rouleaux bracelet is one of the most unusual, with rounded cylindrical links. It’s designed for comfort, and given the rounded shape, it certainly looks the part. Either way, it’s eye-catching and sets the Chronomat collection apart from the larger Breitling stable.
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 features a silver dial, 18k red gold crown and pushers, and a bezel with 18k red gold rider labels
Each chronograph is powered by the Breitling Manufacture 01 movement, which means more to the Chronomat than you might expect. The movement was introduced a decade ago. The watch in the house? The Chronomat 01. This revamped collection uses in-house movements throughout, which include an impressive 70-hour power reserve.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 with Copper Dial and Contrasting Black Chronograph Counters
When it comes to color, Breitling has rolled out the proverbial boat. The standard models all come in a 42mm stainless steel case with a silver, copper, blue, or black dial. The subdials on the first three are black; the last are silver. Alternatively, you can opt for two-tone numerals, rose gold chronograph pushers, crown, and rider label, and a tonal silver or blue dial or anthracite and black subdials. If you really want to push the boat out, there’s also a full rose gold version, though that nerd doesn’t have the iconic Rouleaux bracelet.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Bentley with Green Dial and Contrasting Black Chronograph Counters
The collection even includes the latest Breitling Bentley timepiece, but given that the only differences are the green dial and the automotive-themed engraving on the caseback, there’s not much to say. Even more intriguing is the first new Chronomat limited edition, the Frecce Tricolor.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition, Blue Dial and Same-Color Counters
Based on the piece that inspired the first Chronomat in 1983 (except for the 1940s watch, obviously), the limited edition is inspired by the 313° Gruppo Addestramento Acrobatico, Pattuglia Acrobatica Nazionale, the acrobatic team of the Italian Air Force, better known as the Frecce Tricolori. That means the squadron’s logo replaces Breitling’s own, a lovely blue dial and matching subdials, and a limited edition of 250 pieces. Finally, a Breitling that we can add to the lineup.
The two-tone Chronomat B01 42 features an anthracite dial and black subdials, highlighted by an 18k red gold bezel, crown and pushers
The Chronomat name has been around since the 1940s, and has been a staple of the Breitling collection since the 1980s. Now it’s back, with so many pieces released at once, it looks like Breitling’s new flagship. Time will tell, though, whether a watch designed to please all will also appeal to all.
Price and Specifications:
Brand: Breitling Model Name: Chronomat B01 42, Chronomat B01 42 Bentley, Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition Ref: AB0134101G1A1/AB0134101K1A1/AB0134101C1A1 or AB0134101B1A1 (silver, copper or black with silver-black contrasting counters or black contrasting counters) AB01343A1L1A1 (Chronomat B01 42 Bentley – green with black contrasting counters) AB01344A1C1A1 (Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition – blue with tonal counters) IB0134101G1A1 (silver with tonal counters)
UB0134101C1U1 or UB0134101B1U1 (blue with tonal counters or anthracite with black contrasting counters/two-tone Rouleaux bracelet)
RB0134101B1S1 (anthracite with black contrasting counters)
Case: 42 mm diameter x 15.10 mm height, stainless steel, two-tone stainless steel and 18k red gold or 18k red gold (reference RB0134101B1S1)
Dial: silver, copper or blue with black contrasting counters or black with silver contrasting counters, blue with tonal counters (Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition), green with black contrasting counters (Chronomat B01 42 Bentley) Water resistance: 200m (20 bar) Movement: Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01, automatic mechanical, bidirectional ball bearing, COSC certified Power reserve: 70 hours Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date window
Strap: stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet with butterfly clasp, two-tone Rouleaux bracelet (stainless steel and 18k red gold) with butterfly clasp (ref. UB0134101C1U1 or UB0134101B1U1) or black Diver Pro II rubber strap with 18k red gold folding clasp (ref. RB0134101B1S1)
Price: 7,900 euros (steel), 8,100 euros (Bentley & Frecce Tricolori), 8,950 euros (silver with gold rider label), 11,600 euros EUR (two-tone), EUR 19,000 (18k red gold)
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