Magnetism is watchmaking’s age-old enemy, posing an invisible threat to all spinning, turning, moving parts. Sure, it’s what makes a compass work, but if part of a watch is magnetized, the whole thing needs to be taken apart or it won’t function properly. Swedish watchmaker ECAndersson takes this threat very seriously with its fundamentally anti-magnetic Göta-Lejon Kontra-Gauss GMT.
In case you didn’t know, gauss is a measurement of magnetic force that ranges from the pull of the North Pole to the inside of an MRI machine. The former, as low as 0.25 gauss, doesn’t affect us much, and the latter, as high as nearly the 100,000 mark, can kill you with a paper clip.
The Kontra-Gauss shield surrounding the movement of ECAndersson’s new watch is the result of two years of R&D, and effectively redirects 3,600 gauss of magnetic flux away from the movement. It’s itself hidden in four layers of steel, further absorbing the watch’s magnetism to survive an MRI.
Of course, four layers of steel and one layer of anti-magnetic doesn’t necessarily make for a sleek watch. In fact, the result, on the other hand, can be a mess. However, Andersson used 3D printing and milling techniques to not only reduce the amount of chunky material used in the watch’s case, but also to create an all-around perfect finish.
Sanding, grinding, sandblasting and polishing give the surface a mirror-like finish and dramatically catch the light at different angles, while the enamel rotor is a gorgeous finishing touch. With its gleaming blue dial and contrasting yellow GMT hand, the Göta-Lejon Kontra-Gauss GMT is as beautiful on a basic aesthetic level as it is in the finest details.
It’s even more impressive when you realize that each watch is made to order in Gothenburg, Sweden, and mostly by founder Erik C Andersson himself. This means that while there’s a delivery time for each watch, you’re getting something that’s been built completely for you by a master craftsman. If you like Swedish provenance, know that even the iron ore used for the case was mined in the countryside – from wrist to mouth rather than farm to mouth.
The only major part of the watch that comes from the outside is the base movement, a Sellita SW300 GMT number. It’s still a reliable, accurate movement at its most basic level, and once it became part of the Kontra Gauss, it received an overhaul that included a new rotor, top decoration, and additional shock protection.
Traveler’s watches like the perennial GMT are classic horological staples; but the Göta-Lejon Kontra-Gauss GMT goes a step further. Not only is it a stunning timepiece worthy of a jet, but it’s also safe from the dangers of becoming magnetized every day (something that happens more often than you think). After all, if the entire watch becomes a giant, self-attracting magnet, not even a second time zone can tell you the time back home.
Be quick though, the first black version sold out quickly upon release, and the blue version is limited to just 50 pieces. Buy now, ship in June.
Price and Specs:
Brand: ECAndersson
Model: Göta-Lejon Kontra-Gauss GMT
Case/Dial: 40mm diameter x 10mm height, polished stainless steel, blue or black sunray dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Calibre ECA02GL1, automatic, 24 jewels
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Functions: Central hours, minutes and seconds, 24-hour GMT
Straps: Three total: waxed one-piece Kudu leather with deployment clasp, micro-adjustable, one-piece steel bracelet and Italian rubber
Price: $2,100 / €1,900 (excl. VAT)
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