Launching a mechanical timepiece that boasts a tachymeter, telemeter and pulsometer is a feat that the Bienne watchmakers set themselves at the dawn of autumn; a feat that is embodied in a series of seven watches, six in steel and one in bronze gold.
Chronographs, derived from the Greek chronos (time) and scope (observation), are used to accurately measure the duration of events and have always existed in Omega’s history. In fact, the first pocket watch created by the company’s founder, Louis Brandt, in 1885, was a chronograph. Inspired by the graphics of some of its pieces from the ’40s, the Bienne brand has launched a series of Speedmaster Chronograph pieces, including six steel references and one in bronze gold, a famous proprietary alloy that is more sustainable and more durable than traditional alloys.
The eye is immediately drawn to the concentric circles across the dial, the snails on the two chronograph counters (small seconds at 9 o’clock and hours at 3 o’clock) and the ring of applied Arabic hour numerals. These scales make up the “chronograph mirror” display: a telemeter (calculating distance based on the speed of sound), a pulsometer (for monitoring heart rate), and a tachymeter on the bezel (for measuring speed based on distance). Elapsed hours and minutes are indicated by two leaf-shaped hands, with a central direct-drive chronograph.
The Master Chronometer-certified 9908 manual-winding movement is housed in a 43 mm diameter case and offers a 60-hour power reserve via a double barrel. The Geneva Wave watch starts with the escapement to enhance the spiral effect, adding brilliance to the movement, creating a highly original visual feast through the sapphire crystal glass back.
While the collection is lighter and more robust, it also stands out by pairing it with high frequencies, with a mechanical heart beating at 8 Hz and a silicon escapement.
In 2019, Chopard launches a new collection that includes style references that are both sporty and chic. Among the pieces, the large Lucent steel model features a stunning stamped brass grey dial adorned with a dazzling pattern like the iris of an eagle’s eye, obtained using a galvanic treatment. On it, a central direct drive tilts a feather-shaped counter. Inspired by a large bird of prey, this piece dominates the 41 mm diameter steel case, with four pairs of screws set on the top of the bezel. These decorations are reiterated in the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. However, some key differences set the two apart. The first is the style. The XII numerals stand alone in a streamlined hour chapter. 3, 6 and 9 have been replaced by indexes. And, to ensure optimal readability, they are covered in Super-LumiNova® X1 paint. The same luminous material also highlights the hour and minute hands. The second change concerns the metal used for the case, which is now made of grade 5 titanium.
Another technical modification of this timepiece: the 01.12-C movement! This automatic movement beats at 57,600 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of up to 60 hours. As with all watches of the brand, chronometric accuracy takes center stage. And, for all its performances, this piece has been COSC-certified.