Last year, Saxon watchmaking stalwart Glashutte Original burst onto the scene with the SeaQ collection, a series of dive watches that were a sharp departure from their usual elegant dress codes. The new Spezialist collection is still based on the 1969 Spezimatic Type RP TS 200. Now, though, the German watchmaker is showing off a pair of distinctly modern divers: the SeaQ Panorama Date Red Gold and Bicolor.
Yes, that’s right, a diver made of gold. This is a quip for tool watch purists, and for relatively good reason. Gold is soft and easily damaged on underwater rocks. But to be fair, it also looks really good, especially on such an elegant, utilitarian timepiece as the SeaQ.
Both watches come in classic colorways, with the 43.3mm red gold case contrasting with a solid black dial and dive bezel. Despite being a precious metal, it’s still water-resistant to 300m and has all the characteristics a diver would need. Just try not to knock it too hard.
More interesting, as far as we’re concerned, is the bicolor version. I loved last year’s Tudor Black Bay S&G, and I’m glad to see another cool diver get a two-tone steel and gold look. The gold bezel and crown here, along with the steel case, are paired with a gray dial that’s highlighted by gold, luminous-filled hour markers and hands. It’s a style that strikes a balance between practicality and luxury, sure, but I just love the quirky, vintage look of a gold-and-steel watch.
Both watches are equipped with the award-winning Calibre 36, which outdoes many tool watch movements that are often built to survive rather than excel. Between its silicon balance spring and impressive 100-hour power reserve, it’s a very reliable piece of haute horology. It also looks great thanks to Glashütte’s signature three-quarter dial and striped finish.
Available with either a standard black rubber strap or a more interesting gray nylon mesh number, the new SeaQ Panorama Dates is a welcome addition to a relatively new entrant in the high-end dive watch space. More importantly, I can’t wait to get the two-tone on my wrist.
Price and specifications:
Brand: Glashütte Original
Model name: SeaQ Panorama Date Red Gold and SeaQ Panorama Date Bicolor
Ref: 1-36-13-04-90 (red gold); 1-36-13-04-91 (bicolor)
Case/dial: Ø 43.2 mm x thickness 15.65 mm, 18k red gold (red gold) or stainless steel, sapphire caseback, 18k red gold bezel and crown, ceramic bezel (bicolor)
Water resistance: 300 m (30 bar)
Movement: Glashütte Original Calibre 36.13, automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, stop seconds, panoramic date
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 100 hours
Strap: Synthetic fiber or rubber
Price: £12,400 (bicolor) and £20,900 British Pound (Red Gold)