It would be all too easy to assume that Parmigiani Fleurier has attached the GT suffix to its latest derivative of the dressy Tonda design and assume that the brand has tipped its hat as a competitor in steel sports watches, ready to suck up customers no longer prepared to queue up in long lines at Rolex, Patek Philippe or AP.
But that’s somewhat missing the point. Why shouldn’t every watch brand seeking a well-rounded collection be able to offer its customers a steel sports watch? Besides, this isn’t a Genta-lite; it has a very distinct visual identity, and it’s this partially new look that should catch your attention.
To be fair, since its founding in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani with financial support from the Sanders Family Foundation, Parmigiani Fleurier has yet to develop the kind of wider brand recognition that its watchmaking business probably deserves.
Parmigiani’s horological credentials are beyond reproach (just take a look at the spectacular solid gold movement of the brand’s Tonda Chronor Anniversaire split-seconds chronograph if you don’t believe us), but its design pieces have always looked a little out of place with modern tastes, such as one of its models that is just waiting to become popular again.
So the two new GTs that mark Tonda’s and their undeniably sleeker, more modern aesthetic should rightfully raise an eyebrow or two. Both watches (the time and date model and the chronograph annual calendar) bear all the hallmarks of the brand, but the fact that they look more sedate and streamlined suggests the involvement of an outsider approaching the drawing board with a fresh pair of eyes.
The man in charge is watch designer Dino Modolo, who previously designed the original incarnation of the Overseas for Vacheron Constantin. Here, he started with the aforementioned Tonda Chronor as a template, polishing the lugs and introducing a bracelet that integrates without feeling forced. He even imported the coin-edge bezel from Parmigiani’s Toric model, a bold move that injects some much-needed personality. The multi-layered dial in matte and guilloche finishes and the circular stepped applique hour markers also get a lot of attention.
The Tonda has always felt like a watch, with all the necessary elements present and correct, but until now, when it was put together to form a whole, something always seemed to be missing. Modolo’s work changes that. Now, there’s a logical flow to the design that’s bound to catch the eye of a wider audience.
The pricing will also appeal to a wider audience. We haven’t gotten sterling prices yet, but there’s only $5,000 between the time and date Tonda GT ($14,500) and the 200-piece limited edition Tondagraph GT ($19,500), when both are priced with a steel bracelet. At this level of watchmaking, it’s a bargain.
These new GT watches may not be perfect. The Tondagraph dial in particular is littered with unnecessary text, the kind of dull functional statement that a watch of this calibre should have the confidence not to say, but they do represent a huge leap forward for Parmigiani Fleurier as a brand.
Price and Specs:
Model Name: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Model Number: PFC910-0000210-X01482 (steel and rubber)
PFC910-0000210-B00182 (steel and bracelet)
PFC910-1500340-X03182 (gold and rubber)
PFC910-1500340-B00782 (gold and bracelet)
Case/Dial: 42 mm diameter x 11.2 mm thickness, stainless steel, black or blue guilloché dial
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Movement: PF044 calibre, in-house, automatic, 33 jewels
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 28,800 bph (4 Hz)
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, big date
Strap: black rubber or steel bracelet
Price: 13,500 EUR (steel and black rubber), 14,500 EUR (steel and steel bracelet), 24,900 EUR (rose gold and rubber strap), TBC (rose gold and gold bracelet), limited to 250 pieces (steel model) and 150 pieces (gold model)
Model name: Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GTReference: PFC906-0000210-B00182 (steel bracelet)
PFC906-0000210-X01482 (black rubber)
Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 13.7mm thickness, stainless steel, black guilloché dialWater resistance: 10 0mMovement: Calibre PF043, Manufacture, automatic, 56 jewelsPower reserve: 48 hoursFrequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, annual calendar, chronographStrap: black rubber or steel braceletPrice: 18,500 euros (black rubber) or 19,500 euros (steel bracelet), limited to 200 pieces
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