With its strong architectural and haute horlogerie look, Breguet’s Tradition collection doesn’t look traditional at all, especially when placed next to the Souscription pocket watch that inspired it. Now, the Tradition welcomes a less classic new member, adding the collection’s first date – and this is Breguet, retrograde.
The Tradition Retrograde Date is a sight to behold, just like its other skeletonized siblings. However, rather than leaving the balance and central mainspring entirely to their own devices, the Grand Retrograde Date is spread across the lower half of the dial, making full use of the negative space.
To ensure it doesn’t bump into the various wheels, the blued steel hands have a small right-angle kink, and for ease of use, they can be quickly changed using a pusher at 10 o’clock. The actual date scale is anthracite in color, making it more readable against the open movement.
The rest of the watch is pure Breguet, meaning a silvered gold engine-turned dial at 12 o’clock with plenty of Paris hobnail finishing and an elegant 40mm case in white or rose gold. Of course, the finish across the board is typically impeccable.
The movement itself boasts a respectable 50-hour power reserve and offers impressive reliability thanks to a silicon balance spring (not just Omega loves this stuff). Not that you’d particularly want to knock a traditional retrograde date.
At £32,000, it’s not cheap, but for a skeletonized timepiece from an infest watchmaker, it’s not bad at all.
Price and specifications:
Model name: Breguet Tradition Retrograde Date
Ref: 7597BR/G1/9WU (rose gold)
7597BB/G1/9WU (white gold)
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 12.10mm height, white or rose gold
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Calibre 505Q, 14½ lignes, automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde date
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: 32,000 GBP
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