This year’s key new models of Patek Philippe: Ref. 5326 (left) and Ref. 5226 (right).
Patek Philippe, which made its debut at the Geneva “Watches & Wonders” exhibition, released as many as 12 new models this time. The latest Ref. 5326 and Ref. 5226 share a common retro theme and design language. In addition to their eye-catching appearance, the former is the first time that Patek Philippe has combined an annual calendar with dual time. The remaining models are mostly based on color and material changes, but the color choices are particularly bright, such as the Ref. 5270 trying a green dial, and the Ref. 5320 and Ref. 5172 using what watch fans jokingly call “salmon-colored dials”, which once again attracted collectors’ attention. In this article, we first introduce the most popular Ref. 5326 and Ref. 5226, and take a look at the unique features of these two watches.
Ref. 5326 and Ref. 5226 are introduced together because they have something in common from the exterior design to the details. First of all, they both belong to the Calatrava series, and both have a gradient charcoal gray dial decorated with grain, “syringe-shaped” hands and beige luminous coating, meticulous second scale, and beige and black calfskin straps, showing a strong retro style.
The gradient charcoal gray dial and the style of the hands are the common features of Ref. 5326 and Ref. 5226 this time.
Another similarity is the “Clous de Paris” decoration on the side of the case. Previously, Patek Philippe decorated the Paris nail pattern on the bezel, from the earliest Ref. 3919 to the newly launched Ref. 6119 last year. If it is used on the side of the case, Ref. 6300 and Ref. 5531 have done so before. Although the two new watches use the same Paris hobnail decoration, due to the different case thickness, the Paris hobnail pattern on the side of Ref. 5326 is 5 layers, while that on Ref. 5226 is 3 layers. In addition, both watches use a “three-layer” case structure: the bezel is connected to the mirror, the side of the case is a separate part, and the lugs are connected to the back cover, which means that the entire bezel will be combined with the other two parts after the Paris hobnail pattern is applied, and the production process is more complicated.
Both Ref. 5326 and Ref. 5226 use Paris hobnail decoration on the case side, and use a three-layer case structure, which makes the production process more complicated.
Ref. 5326G-001
Ref. 5326 is the first time that Patek Philippe combines the two functions of dual time and annual calendar. The most difficult part is that these two functions involve a key: date. The annual calendar function only adjusts the date once in February. In theory, it only needs to be adjusted forward, but the dual time function will adjust the date forward or backward according to the adjustment of local time. In addition, the problem of long and short months must be taken into account. Therefore, overcoming the date conversion and maintaining the correct time of the annual calendar while conveniently using the dual time function is the biggest difficulty of this watch. – ADVERTISEMENT –
Ref. 5326G-001 is the first watch that Patek Philippe combines dual time and annual calendar functions.
Another highlight is that its dual time operation is “simplified”. The original dual time function of Patek Philippe was like Ref. 5524 or Ref. 5164, which can be quickly adjusted forward and backward through two buttons on the left side of the case. However, this time, Ref. 5326 integrates the adjustment button into a single crown. This approach was actually first used on Ref. 5269 last year. The three-stage crown setting can be pulled to the middle position to adjust the dual time clockwise or counterclockwise, which is more convenient.
The newly developed 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H automatic winding movement has up to 8 patent designs.
The new 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H automatic winding movement alone has up to 8 patent technologies. For example, the traditional calendar device takes about 90 minutes to change the day at night, but this time it is shortened to 18 minutes; the rotatable fixed bridge is convenient for future movement maintenance. There are also some patents to avoid errors when operating the watch, such as stabilizing the position of the hands, preventing the misalignment of the time display, etc. Through these patented technologies, the stability of the watch is improved.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001, suggested retail price NT$2,242,000.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5326G-001
Size: 41mm
Material: 18K white gold
Movement: 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H automatic winding movement
Function: time indication; annual calendar device; dual time; moon phase display
Strap: beige calfskin strap and black calfskin strap
Suggested retail price: NT$2,242,000
Ref. 5226G-001
As for Ref. 5226G, it is a large three-hand watch with date function, with a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of only 8.53mm. It is equipped with a 26-330 SC automatic winding movement. Although it has the same case design and dial features as Ref. 5326G, there are slight differences: the three-hand Ref. 5226G uses a more precise 1/4 second scale on the outer ring, that is, there are four small grids for one second, while Ref. 5326G uses a track scale.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5226G-001, recommended retail price NT$1,138,000.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5226G-001
Size: 40mm
Material: 18K white gold
Movement: 26-330 SC automatic winding movement
Function: time indication; date display
Strap: beige calfskin strap and black calfskin strap
Recommended retail price: NT$1,138,000
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