The world is full of watches that are, for lack of a better word, fluff. Complications that mimic solar system bodies, cases that have survived the crushing depths of the Mariana Trench, dials inspired by the Alpine night sky under a full moon, because cheese is too much. It’s a bit much, and a bit unnecessary.
It’s enough to make you long for a breath of clean, simple air – the air that Retras is all about, and breathes. There are no bells and whistles in their timepieces, no PR stories attributing their creations to some ancient ancestor, and no fluff. Their reason for existence? Like any good watchmaker: to make great watches.
Of course, the brand had a specific starting point, one that dive watch founder Axel Schijns found and gave to his father, which needed some work decades later. He restored it, and that was the origin of Retras. This isn’t a story about overcoming adversity, but about the resilient style of watches he loves, something we can all identify with.
This old 60s diver became the starting point for what would become Retras watches, a serious vintage-style watch brand. In fact, Retras is so straightforward that their first watch is simply called the Retras Dive Watch – it speaks for itself.
The Dive Watch’s clean, sleek look makes it instantly recognisable; it’s been heavily imitated over the last few years, with the archival design soaring to the forefront of watch design. It has a sturdy 38.5mm case, is water resistant to 100m; a bi-directional bezel with aluminium inlays and a Swiss automatic movement. The movement is the simple, effective and affordable STP 1-11, a value proposition alternative to Sellita and ETA.
Despite its apparent simplicity, the Dive Watch is deceptively complex to build. The faded olive drab is an exact replica of the hue on Axel’s father’s watch, a colour that’s usually only found in well-loved, heavily worn watches. It’s an unusual colour, but one that any vintage lover can get on board with. The case is also unusual, a construction once again taken from an original inherited diver, standing out in a school of equally vintage-inspired divers.
To complete the look, the dive watch comes with two different straps: a practical military NATO strap and a suitably nice leather numbered one, depending on whether you want to rely on its tool or vintage credentials. Whichever way you look at Retras’ debut watch, at €1,199 it’s a great value watch.
Price and specifications:
Model name: Retras Dive
Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter, 316L steel
Water resistance: 100m (10 ATM)
Movement: Calibre STP 1-11, automatic mechanical
Functions: Hours, minutes, sweep seconds
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 44 hours
Strap: Green/black Nato with additional leather strap
Price: €1,199, limited to 50 pieces
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