Pilot, icon, dashing wearer of a Panama hat, Brazilian aviator and inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont was a pioneer who designed and built his own prototype of an epic flying machine. He also has him to thank (through being friends with a certain Mr. Cartier) for giving us the world’s first pilot’s watch.
The Santos has been a mainstay of the Cartier collection in one form or another since 1904, and in 2020 the Parisian jeweler-turned-watchmaker will unveil four limited-edition Santos watches that pay homage to that legacy and the man who inspired it – the Dumont watch.
The first three all feature a similar construction, a 43.5mm x 31.4mm case, equipped with a caliber 430 MC manual-winding movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Each has the same signature Santos-Dumont bezel, with its industrial screws and elegant lines, pure streamlined modernism. The differences appear first in the finishes, then in the caseback.
Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil”, limited to 100 pieces
Let’s start with the “Le Brésil”, a tonal platinum case and silver dial combo with a ruby (rather than the usual sapphire) cabochon on the crown. That ruby is the only pop of color, and it highlights the various finishes – brushed, polished – at the contemporary art fair.
Flip the watch over and you can see where it gets its name from, with a beautiful engraving of the Santos-Dumont flying machine, which gives the watch its name. That’s where the theme of the capsule collection comes in, with each watch attributed to a different pilot’s piece – in this case a hot air balloon dubbed “Le Brésil”. Only 100 of this edition will be built.
Santos-Dumont “La Baladeuse”, limited to 300 pieces
Chronologically, that means next up is the “La Baladeus”, an elongated balloon/Zeppelin affair. The tribute watch before the engraving is classic Cartier, with a yellow gold case, a champagne dial, black Roman numerals and sapphire cabochons. This is the most classic of the series, limited to 300 pieces.
Santos-Dumont “No. 14 Bis”, limited to 500 pieces
Third, we have the “No. 14 Bis”, where contrast is king. This is the entry level of the full quartet, with a two-tone stainless steel case and yellow gold bezel. Add in a black dial and contrasting white hour markers, and you have the most modern Santos-Dumont model. There’s still a lot to go on aesthetically, and it’s the least elegant, but it’s by far the most accessible, both in terms of price point and because it’s limited to just 500 pieces, which is a good amount from a haute horlogerie perspective.
The reverse is arguably the most interesting of the Santos Dumont’s flying machines, if only because it’s the weirdest. The “No 14 Bis” is known as a “cabin kite”, and basically requires the pilot to stand on top and manipulate the fins and rudder with what amounts to reins. Early pilots were wild about it.
Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle”, limited to 30 pieces
This brings us to the final model, one we’ve saved until last not only because it’s the last in the series in terms of time, but also because it’s a little different from the others.
The “La Demoiselle” clocks in at 46.6mm x At 33.9mm, it’s a chunk of platinum bigger than the rest of the trio, and pays homage to Santos-Dumont’s major success as an inventor, his first mass-produced flying machine. It’s still quirky, bordering on dangerous, compared to today’s aircraft, but at least the engraving on the back is recognizable. Sort of.
While it’s equipped with the same hand-wound movement as the rest of this limited edition collection, the “La Demoiselle” does a much better job dial-wise. If the caseback is a nod to the aircraft, the dial is a nod to the pilot. Said dial mimics the woven texture and cream color of Santos-Dumont’s famous Panama hat, as well as the matching strap. It’s a great little touch that makes it the most exclusive piece in the collection. And the fact that it’s limited to just 30 pieces. Once again a touch of warmth is provided by a cabochon ruby, but this time it comes with a pair of cufflinks that complement the red tiger-eye setting.
Simply by being a friend of Cartier, Santos-Dumont has given us one of the most important watches ever made; it’s good to occasionally be reminded that he was also a pioneering pilot. With this four-piece capsule collection, consider that a reminder.
Prices and Specs:
Model Names: Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions
References: WGSA0034 (Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil”), WGSA0027 (Santos-Dumont “La Baladeuse”), and W2SA0015 (Santos-Dumont “Le 14 Bis”)
Case/Dial: 43.5mm diameter x 31.4mm height x 7.3mm thickness, in platinum (Le Brésil), 18k yellow gold (La Baladeuse), stainless steel, and 18k yellow gold (No. 14 Bis)
Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Calibre 430 MC, manual winding
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours
Strap: grey alligator leather (Le Brésil), green alligator leather (La Baladeuse), grey alligator leather (No. 14 Bis)
Price: 17,800 CHF (Le Brésil), 13,600 CHF (La Baladeuse) and 6,850 CHF (No. 14 Bis), limited to 100 pieces (Le Brésil); 300 pieces (La Baladeuse); 500 pieces (No. 14 Bis)
Reference name: Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle”
Case/dial: 46.6 mm diameter x 33.9 mm height x 7.5 mm thickness, platinum and ruby cabochon crown
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Calibre 430 MC, manual winding
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours
Strap: Panama fabric with brown alligator strap
Price: CHF 41,600, limited to 30 pieces
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