You may know IWC for its authentic aviation history and iconic pilots’ watches, but despite this, the Portuguese remains their best-selling watch. Launched in 1939, its etymology is tied to its first customers, two famous Portuguese businessmen who wore a worthy marine chronometer while traveling. For 2020, IWC returns to the 30s roots of this watch with four sophisticated 40mm models, as well as two 42mm boutique models with bracelets.
The four new 40mm versions pay homage to the original reference 325 from the 30s, with a clean dial, small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and no date window ensuring it’s a faithful recreation. A modern take on the dial, but with numerals and appliques rather than lacquer for clearer legibility and a flat sapphire crystal rather than a dome. Size-wise, at over 40mm in diameter, they’re smaller than the originals launched in 1939, standing just 12.4mm tall. This size shift in the collection caters to men and women with smaller wrists who might have been put off previously.
Mechanically, the watch is as efficient as you’d expect from the German watchmaker, with the manufacture calibre 82200, which features cutting-edge ceramic components and a Pellaton bi-directional winding system, meaning it has a generous 60-hour reserve. The fine movement is also visible through the sapphire caseback, a lovely touch to an otherwise exquisite watch.
Available in two case materials, there are three steel-cased versions, two with silver-plated dials and one with a blue sunray-brushed dial with rhodium appliques and numerals. The gold-cased versions will feature a silver dial, and all will have varying gold-plated and rhodium-plated hands, appliques and numerals. All four will be paired with a dressy Santoni alligator leather strap.
IWC Portuigueser Automatic 42mm
IWC Portuigueser Automatic 42mm Boutique Edition (Ref: IW500713)
The 42mm version is the larger of the two thanks to its twin-barreled in-house 52610 movement. This extra dial space means IWC has changed the format slightly, with the small seconds at 9 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock, and the epic 7-day power reserve at 3 o’clock. It’s certainly busier than the standard version. Flip the 42mm case over and it reveals a see-through sapphire caseback, showing off the impressive movement along with the signature Pellaton winding mechanism.
The steel cased version will feature a brushed burgundy sunray dial, while the boutique 5N gold version will come in a sunray-brushed blue. Personally, I prefer the more non-boutique iterations, although neither watch is limited in production, so it’s really a matter of personal preference and budget.
Price and Specs:
Brand: IWC
Model: Portugieser Automatic 40
References: IW358303 (stainless steel/silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques), IW358304 (stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, blue hands and appliques), IW358305 (stainless steel case, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques), IW358306 (18-karat 5N gold case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, 18-karat gold appliques)
Case/Dial: 40.4mm diameter x 12.4mm height, stainless steel or 18k gold (reference IW358306)
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: IWC calibre 82200, automatic
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price/availability: Steel CHF 7,500/EUR 7,150, Gold CHF 17,200/EUR 16,900
Brand: IWC
Model: Portugieser Automatic 42
References: IW500713 (18-carat gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, boutique edition), IW500714 (stainless steel case, burgundy dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques)
Case/dial: 42.3 mm diameter x 14.2 mm height, 18k gold (Ref. IW500713) or stainless steel (Ref. IW500714)
Water resistance: 30 m (3 bar)
Movement: IWC 52010 Movement, automatic
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: alligator leather
Price/availability: TBC, blue and gold versions exclusive to IWC boutiques
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